Honoring Our History
Honoring Our History
EUMELANIN's color palette carries the stories of Black American fashion pioneers whose groundbreaking techniques and contributions helped shape the industry. Each color in our core palette carries one of their names, drawn from the richness of black and brown skin and standing for their craft, their vision, and their legacy.
When you carry EUMELANIN, you carry their story forward.beautiful in their skin while carrying the legacy of those who came before them.
Zelda Wynn Valdes
Born on June 28, 1905, in Chambersburg, PA, Zelda Wynn Valdes was a trailblazing fashion designer whose work helped redefine feminine beauty. She began her career in fashion by working at her uncle’s tailoring shop in New York, while also gaining experience as a salesgirl in a high-end boutique. In 1948, she made history by opening her own boutique on Broadway, becoming the first African American to own a store on the prestigious street.
A Visionary in Fashion
Zelda played a pivotal role in popularizing the hourglass silhouette in the 1940s and 1950s. She had an extraordinary ability to craft perfectly fitted gowns, often relying on sight alone rather than measurements. Her mastery of design made her one of Hollywood’s most sought-after couturiers. She created breathtaking gowns for legends like Josephine Baker, Mae West, Ella Fitzgerald, and even designed the wedding dress for Maria Cole, wife of Nat King Cole.
Championing Diversity in Fashion
Committed to uplifting Black designers, Zelda co-founded the National Association of Fashion & Accessory Designers (NAFAD) in 1949 alongside civil rights leader Mary McLeod Bethune. As the president of its New York chapter, she worked to create opportunities for Black women in the fashion industry, challenging discrimination and fostering a more inclusive future.
A Legacy of Elegance
In 1970, Arthur Mitchell, founder of the Dance Theatre of Harlem, personally invited Zelda to serve as the company’s head costume designer. She remained in this role until her passing in 2001, leaving behind a legacy of exquisite craftsmanship and artistic innovation.
Throughout her career, Zelda Wynn Valdes not only broke barriers but also reshaped the very aesthetics of fashion and beauty. Her visionary designs continue to inspire generations, solidifying her place as a true icon of style and elegance.
Zelda Wynn Valdes
Born on June 28, 1905, in Chambersburg, PA, Zelda Wynn Valdes was a trailblazing fashion designer whose work helped redefine feminine beauty. She began her career in fashion by working at her uncle’s tailoring shop in New York, while also gaining experience as a salesgirl in a high-end boutique. In 1948, she made history by opening her own boutique on Broadway, becoming the first African American to own a store on the prestigious street.
A Visionary in Fashion
Zelda played a pivotal role in popularizing the hourglass silhouette in the 1940s and 1950s. She had an extraordinary ability to craft perfectly fitted gowns, often relying on sight alone rather than measurements. Her mastery of design made her one of Hollywood’s most sought-after couturiers. She created breathtaking gowns for legends like Josephine Baker, Mae West, Ella Fitzgerald, and even designed the wedding dress for Maria Cole, wife of Nat King Cole.
Championing Diversity in Fashion
Committed to uplifting Black designers, Zelda co-founded the National Association of Fashion & Accessory Designers (NAFAD) in 1949 alongside civil rights leader Mary McLeod Bethune. As the president of its New York chapter, she worked to create opportunities for Black women in the fashion industry, challenging discrimination and fostering a more inclusive future.
A Legacy of Elegance
In 1970, Arthur Mitchell, founder of the Dance Theatre of Harlem, personally invited Zelda to serve as the company’s head costume designer. She remained in this role until her passing in 2001, leaving behind a legacy of exquisite craftsmanship and artistic innovation.
Throughout her career, Zelda Wynn Valdes not only broke barriers but also reshaped the very aesthetics of fashion and beauty. Her visionary designs continue to inspire generations, solidifying her place as a true icon of style and elegance.
Hylan Booker
In 1958, 19-year-old Hylan Booker, a Black G.I. from Detroit, was stationed at the smallest active combat base in London, England. But military life wasn’t his calling—fashion was. He first discovered his love for art while studying at Cass Technical High School in Detroit. While serving in London, he pursued fashion design at Swindon Tech, which eventually led him to the prestigious Royal College of Art, in London. Determined to follow his dreams, Hylan was granted time away from the Air Force to take the necessary entrance exams. Reflecting on his experience, he once said, “The service could be a pretty exacting thing, but I found the personal space to do the things I wanted to do.”
A Rising Star in British Fashion
After his studies, Hylan launched his own brand from a small attic space behind Liberty in London. With just one sewist and his own vision, he built a remarkably successful business. He credited London’s vibrant creative scene for his success, saying, “London allowed us all to have a separate personality and still get attention. To think something one day, and the next day it’s important—that is extraordinary.”
Redefining Couture
His talent and innovation were soon recognized on a grand scale. In 1967, he won the prestigious Yardley Award as the leading British designer. This accolade paved the way for his appointment as head designer at the House of Charles Frederick—a historic couture establishment founded by the father of haute couture himself. With this role, Hylan Booker made history as the first Black couturier to lead a fashion house.
Beyond the Runway
Though retired from high fashion today, Hylan Booker’s influence continues. His groundbreaking achievements shattered barriers in the fashion world, proving that talent and determination could transcend limitations. Now, you can find him sharing his expertise and passion at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art.
Hylan Booker
In 1958, 19-year-old Hylan Booker, a Black G.I. from Detroit, was stationed at the smallest active combat base in London, England. But military life wasn’t his calling—fashion was. He first discovered his love for art while studying at Cass Technical High School in Detroit. While serving in London, he pursued fashion design at Swindon Tech, which eventually led him to the prestigious Royal College of Art, in London. Determined to follow his dreams, Hylan was granted time away from the Air Force to take the necessary entrance exams. Reflecting on his experience, he once said, “The service could be a pretty exacting thing, but I found the personal space to do the things I wanted to do.”
A Rising Star in British Fashion
After his studies, Hylan launched his own brand from a small attic space behind Liberty in London. With just one sewist and his own vision, he built a remarkably successful business. He credited London’s vibrant creative scene for his success, saying, “London allowed us all to have a separate personality and still get attention. To think something one day, and the next day it’s important—that is extraordinary.”
Redefining Couture
His talent and innovation were soon recognized on a grand scale. In 1967, he won the prestigious Yardley Award as the leading British designer. This accolade paved the way for his appointment as head designer at the House of Charles Frederick—a historic couture establishment founded by the father of haute couture himself. With this role, Hylan Booker made history as the first Black couturier to lead a fashion house.
Beyond the Runway
Though retired from high fashion today, Hylan Booker’s influence continues. His groundbreaking achievements shattered barriers in the fashion world, proving that talent and determination could transcend limitations. Now, you can find him sharing his expertise and passion at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art.
Willi Smith
Born on February 19, 1948, in Philadelphia, PA, Willi Smith was a visionary fashion designer who revolutionized American style. In 1965, he earned two full scholarships to Parsons School of Design, but at 19, he left to pursue freelancing.
His early career was met with obstacles, but his perseverance led to the launch of his brand WilliWear Limited in 1976. Operating out of a showroom in New York City’s garment district, the brand became a powerhouse—by 1986, WilliWear was sold in over 500 stores across the U.S. and Europe, generating more than $25 million annually.
Redefining Fashion for the People
Willi Smith built one of the most influential fashion brands of the 1980s, earning a reputation as one of the most successful Black designers in history. He blurred the lines between high fashion and streetwear, pioneering what he called "Street Couture"—a bold fusion of loose-fitting silhouettes, vibrant natural fabrics, and playful, witty prints. His designs weren’t just stylish; they were made to be accessible to everyone, offering luxury quality at prices the everyday person could afford.
Reflecting on His Mission
Willi once said, “I don’t design clothes for the queen, but for the people who wave at her as she goes by.”
In 1978, he expanded into menswear, becoming the first designer to produce both menswear and womenswear under the same brand. His 1983 "Street Couture" collection broke boundaries, redefining fashion shows by merging runway, art, and live music—a format that still shapes modern fashion presentations.
Honoring an Icon
Willi Smith’s groundbreaking contributions earned him major industry accolades:
- 1983 Coty American Fashion Critics Award (the second Black designer to win)
- 1985 Cutty Sark Men’s Fashion Award
- 1986 Designer of Mary Jane Watson’s wedding dress in The Amazing Spider-Man Annual #21
- 1987 Costume collaboration with Ruth E. Carter for Spike Lee’s film School Daze
A Tapestry of Influence
Tragically, Willi Smith passed away in 1987 at just 39 years old due to complications from pneumonia, later revealed to be related to HIV / AIDS. At the time of his death, he was the most successful Black designer in America, leaving behind an indelible mark on the fashion industry.
In 1988, New York City Mayor David Dinkins declared February 23 “Willi Smith Day” in recognition of his immense contributions to fashion and culture. His fearless creativity and commitment to making fashion fun, accessible, and meaningful continues to inspire designers today.
Willi Smith
Born on February 19, 1948, in Philadelphia, PA, Willi Smith was a visionary fashion designer who revolutionized American style. In 1965, he earned two full scholarships to Parsons School of Design, but at 19, he left to pursue freelancing.
His early career was met with obstacles, but his perseverance led to the launch of his brand WilliWear Limited in 1976. Operating out of a showroom in New York City’s garment district, the brand became a powerhouse—by 1986, WilliWear was sold in over 500 stores across the U.S. and Europe, generating more than $25 million annually.
Redefining Fashion for the People
Willi Smith built one of the most influential fashion brands of the 1980s, earning a reputation as one of the most successful Black designers in history. He blurred the lines between high fashion and streetwear, pioneering what he called "Street Couture"—a bold fusion of loose-fitting silhouettes, vibrant natural fabrics, and playful, witty prints. His designs weren’t just stylish; they were made to be accessible to everyone, offering luxury quality at prices the everyday person could afford.
Reflecting on His Mission
Willi once said, “I don’t design clothes for the queen, but for the people who wave at her as she goes by.”
In 1978, he expanded into menswear, becoming the first designer to produce both menswear and womenswear under the same brand. His 1983 "Street Couture" collection broke boundaries, redefining fashion shows by merging runway, art, and live music—a format that still shapes modern fashion presentations.
Honoring an Icon
Willi Smith’s groundbreaking contributions earned him major industry accolades:
- 1983 Coty American Fashion Critics Award (the second Black designer to win)
- 1985 Cutty Sark Men’s Fashion Award
- 1986 Designer of Mary Jane Watson’s wedding dress in The Amazing Spider-Man Annual #21
- 1987 Costume collaboration with Ruth E. Carter for Spike Lee’s film School Daze
A Tapestry of Influence
Tragically, Willi Smith passed away in 1987 at just 39 years old due to complications from pneumonia, later revealed to be related to HIV / AIDS. At the time of his death, he was the most successful Black designer in America, leaving behind an indelible mark on the fashion industry.
In 1988, New York City Mayor David Dinkins declared February 23 “Willi Smith Day” in recognition of his immense contributions to fashion and culture. His fearless creativity and commitment to making fashion fun, accessible, and meaningful continues to inspire designers today.
Elizabeth Keckley
Born into slavery in February 1818 in Virginia, Elizabeth Keckley spent the first 30 years of her life enslaved. Elizabeth was taught the art of dressmaking by her mother, Agnes Hobbs. Despite her bondage, she honed her craft and built a thriving dressmaking business in St. Louis. For over two years, she single-handedly supported 17 people, proving not only her skill but her resilience. As her reputation grew, so did her determination to secure her freedom. In 1855, she purchased her and her son George’s freedom for $1,200—the equivalent of $43,000 today.
From Bondage to Businesswoman
In 1860, Elizabeth Keckley moved to Washington, D.C., a city that offered economic opportunity and stability for thousands of freed Black men and women. At the time, the city was home to over 14,000 African Americans, 78% of whom were free. Dressmaking was one of the most profitable professions available to Black women, and Elizabeth quickly rose to prominence as one of the most sought-after designers. Within a decade of gaining her freedom, she transformed her one-woman operation into a thriving workshop with a staff of 20, securing her place among D.C.'s elite fashion circles. Alongside her contemporaries, Elizabeth helped pave the way for Black designers, carving out an ever-expanding space in the American fashion industry and haute couture.
A Dressmaker in the White House
Elizabeth’s reputation brought her into the orbit of First Lady Mary Todd Lincoln, for whom she became a personal dressmaker and confidante. Their relationship gave Elizabeth a rare insider’s view into the White House and the Lincoln family’s private struggles during the Civil War.
In 1868, she published her memoir, Thirty Years a Slave and Four Years in the White House, detailing her journey from enslavement to entrepreneurship. It was an unprecedented account of both her life and the intimate realities of the Lincoln household. Though controversial at the time, her book remains an essential historical record.
Threads of Resilience
Throughout her life, Elizabeth Keckley created beauty where there was none for African American people, proving that clothing could be more than fabric—it could be a vessel for autonomy, dignity, and empowerment. A pioneer of American fashion, she helped shape the industry while defying the odds stacked against her. In her own words, “No one could subdue my proud and rebellious spirit, but many would try.” Her legacy endures as a testament to resilience, artistry, and the power of self-determination.
Elizabeth Keckley
Born into slavery in February 1818 in Virginia, Elizabeth Keckley spent the first 30 years of her life enslaved. Elizabeth was taught the art of dressmaking by her mother, Agnes Hobbs. Despite her bondage, she honed her craft and built a thriving dressmaking business in St. Louis. For over two years, she single-handedly supported 17 people, proving not only her skill but her resilience. As her reputation grew, so did her determination to secure her freedom. In 1855, she purchased her and her son George’s freedom for $1,200—the equivalent of $43,000 today.
From Bondage to Businesswoman
In 1860, Elizabeth Keckley moved to Washington, D.C., a city that offered economic opportunity and stability for thousands of freed Black men and women. At the time, the city was home to over 14,000 African Americans, 78% of whom were free. Dressmaking was one of the most profitable professions available to Black women, and Elizabeth quickly rose to prominence as one of the most sought-after designers. Within a decade of gaining her freedom, she transformed her one-woman operation into a thriving workshop with a staff of 20, securing her place among D.C.'s elite fashion circles. Alongside her contemporaries, Elizabeth helped pave the way for Black designers, carving out an ever-expanding space in the American fashion industry and haute couture.
A Dressmaker in the White House
Elizabeth’s reputation brought her into the orbit of First Lady Mary Todd Lincoln, for whom she became a personal dressmaker and confidante. Their relationship gave Elizabeth a rare insider’s view into the White House and the Lincoln family’s private struggles during the Civil War.
In 1868, she published her memoir, Thirty Years a Slave and Four Years in the White House, detailing her journey from enslavement to entrepreneurship. It was an unprecedented account of both her life and the intimate realities of the Lincoln household. Though controversial at the time, her book remains an essential historical record.
Threads of Resilience
Throughout her life, Elizabeth Keckley created beauty where there was none for African American people, proving that clothing could be more than fabric—it could be a vessel for autonomy, dignity, and empowerment. A pioneer of American fashion, she helped shape the industry while defying the odds stacked against her. In her own words, “No one could subdue my proud and rebellious spirit, but many would try.” Her legacy endures as a testament to resilience, artistry, and the power of self-determination.
The Hexagon
